a tourist town, there is a particularly good selection of restaurants for the foreign palate, offering toned down spicy Thai food, Northern specialities and Isarn food as well as menus laden with favourites from France, Italy, Germany, Japan, Vietnam, China, the Middle East, India, Pakistan and Mexico. There are also a number of American-styled steak houses and diners and the proverbial British fish and chips.

Coffee shops have also sprung up all over Chiang Mai and some offer simple lunch dishes. Most guesthouses and hotels serve western breakfasts along with muesli, yoghurt and a wonderful selection of exotic Thai fruit.

Most the restaurants in Chiang Mai serve a cornucopia of delicious Thai dishes and this alone could be the highlight of your visit. Be a little adventurous and try the piquant tom yum goong (a seafood soup delicately balanced with sweet, sour, spicy and salty ingredients) or the famous khaeng khieo wan (green curry). Then there's the steaming pla jian (whole fish poached in ginger, onions and soy sauce), or the mild kai phat met ma muang (chicken fried with vegetables and cashew nuts), or the perennial Thai lunch favourite, somtam - a spicy papaya salad with a myriad of herbaceous ingredients. Northern favourites include sai ua (spicy sausage), khao soy (Shan-Yunnanese influenced curry noodles), Kaeng hang lae (pork curry casserole with ginger and peanuts) and kaen yuak (banana palm curry). Many of these dishes are served as vegetarian dishes and those with a sweet tooth should certainly sample the coconut-sweetened sticky rice and mango with nuts.

The Riverside, Chiang Mai: Lively and popular with live bands, broad mixed menu and indoor/outdoor   seating. 9 Charoenrat rd (053) 243 239 $$

The Good View Restaurant, Chiang Mai: cavernous, noisy and popular with locals, romantic band,   abundant and tasty food. 13 Charoenrat rd (053) 241 866 $$

The Gallery Restaurant: quiet, lovely interior with art gallery, variable food and service quality. 25   Charoenrat rd (053) 248 601) $$

All three are located along a stretch of the Ping River's east bank, just north of Nawarat Bridge.

Antique House: a beautiful 100-year-old teak house with good service and food, and a peaceful ambience.   71 Charoen Prathet rd (053) 276 810 $$

River Ping Palace: lovely, quiet riverside location in old teak house, with creative food and friendly staff.   Charoen Prathat rd, south, near the Sheraton Hotel $$

Palaad Tawanrod: enjoys an unbeatable location among the forest on the lower slopes of the moutain   above the zoo. The views are great, but it gets busy so be prepared for a long wait for your food. Follow   the signs from the right turn near the top of Suithep road (053) 216 039. $$

The Queen Victoria Inn: authentic English-styled pub recently opened with a full English breakfast, pub   lunch and dinner menu, as well as Thai food and steakhouse favourites, washed down with a good   selection of beers. Proppaklao road, near Chang Phuak gate, north side of the Moat (053) 418 255 $$

Jerusalem Falafel: Tasty Middle Eastern food and delicacies, in a small centrally located shop. Moon Muang   rd, opposite Tapae Gate (053) 270 208 $$

Haus Munchen: genuine German fare and more, good reputation and service. 115/3 Loi Kroh rd (near   Night Market) (053) 274 027 $$

Jia Thong Heng: a busy choice full of Chiang Mai's elite, with first class Chinese food and service. 193/2-3   Sri Donchai rd (053) 275 242 $$$

Fujian - Dhara Dhevi: located in this five star Mandarin Oriental hotel, set among a mock-up Asian market,   this Cantonese cuisine is delivered with authentic ambience and impeccable service. Their all-you-can-eat   lunch dim sum is very affordable. Dhara Dhevi Hotel, San Khampeng. (053) 888 888 Ext. 8548. $$$

Le Gong Kum: charming Vietnamese restaurant set in superb garden and neo-colonial French house, wide   menu and quiet atmosphere. Soi Chantarasak, Huay Kaew road (053) 221 869 $$

Le Coq d'Or Restaurant: unrivalled with 35 years of French food and wine excellence, lovely antique teak   house. 68/1 Koh Klang rd (053) 281 981 $$$+

Farang ses - Dhara Dhevi: is a silver service, luxury priced French restaurant set among this   extraordinary Lanna themed hotel in San khampeng. Situated in a temple-styled building, Restaurant has   a menu that offers world class dishes and a first class dining experience, unmatched in Chiang Mai. Dhara   Dhevi Hotel, San Khampeng. (053) 888 888 Ext. 8549. $$$++

La Gondola: riverside location in romantic garden with Italian/Thai menu and soft music sung by owner.   201 Charoenrat rd (below Rimping Condo) (053) 235 942 $$$

Giorgio: is an unassuming place near the night market with exceptional food and faultless service,   boasting clientele such as the Crown Prince. Chanklan rd (near intersection with Sri Donchai road) booking   recommended (053) 818 236 $$$

Asahi: inexpensive sushi, teriyaki and sashimi, popular with Japanese residents and ex-pats who once   lived there. 98/3 Sri Donchai rd (053 275 323) $$

The Saloon: American-styled burger and steakhouse with great Southern food, friendly owner and staff,   nice atmosphere and music videos on large screen. central location. Loi Kroh rd, 150m from Night Bazaar.

Zest Restaurant: convenient location, nice outdoor seating area and healthy menu with good service. Moon   Muang rd (near Tapae Gate) (053) 418 090 $+

JJ Bakery: handy sandwich place, with quick service, tasty food, good coffee and shakes. Air-conditioned.   388 Tapae rd (053) 234 007 $+

Ratana's Kitchen: popular place with aircon and tasty Thai and foreign food, conveniently located. 320   Tapae rd (053) 320 322 $

Aroon Rai: simple but famous with buffet and basic menu, 35 years experience, central location. 45   Kotchasarn rd (near Tapae Gate) (053) 276 947 $

Salad House: is set among nice outdoor gardens and has a creative but simple menu drawing from their   organic fields on-site, they also sell produce. Mahidol road adjacent to Airport plaza, heading towards   airport (053) 276 947 $

The Vegetarian Society: is a popular non-profit lunch time canteen providing cheap organic food. Mahidol   rd (between Ku Ruang Moat corner and Airport Plaza) (053) 271 262 $

Aum Vegetarian: all veggie place, with nice ambience seated on the floor, centrally located. Moon Muang   rd (opposite Tapae Gate) (053) 278 315 $

Whole Earth Restaurant: good Indian food with wide veggie selection, located in antique house and lovely   garden. 88 Sri Doncai rd (053) 282 463 $$

Blue Diamond: Health food gem with fresh bakes and health herbs, popular brunch place. Tricky to find.   Moonmuang, soi 9 (near Sriphum Moat corner) $

Khun Churn: serves a vegetarian buffet (60 baht) every lunch which is popular with Thai and ex-pats alike   in the Nimminhemin area. Soi 11 off Nimminhemin rd. (053) 302 563 $